Tigray Rock Hewn Churches and Gheralta

The Tigray region has plenty more, older ones, with more paintings,
special architecture; remote locations….Over 125 rock hewn churches are
recorded with Tigray-alone. These churches date from 4th-15th century.
Most of them are visited around the Gheralta chained mountains. Others
are found in eastern and southern Tigray.

Gheralta, northwest of Mekelle, the capital of Tigray, is the home of
a quarter of the rock churches, some famous for their stone
workmanship, ancient paintings and old manuscripts, and others known for
their magnificent view and difficult ascent.

Gheralta, northwest of Mekelle, the capital of
Tigray, is the home of a quarter of the rock churches, some famous for
their stone workmanship, ancient paintings and old manuscripts, and
others known for their magnificent view and difficult ascent. Some four
hours drive from Axum-plus a further two hours, stiff uphill walk from
the road ends — lies the monastery of Debre Damo, situated on a cliff
top in one of the wildest part of Tigray.

The scenery of Gheralta is spectacular. The view of the graceful
mount Gheralta and the far-reaching Hawzien plain is a rare combination
of extraordinary beauty.

Wukro Cherkos Church – is a semi-monolithic church
whose side walls, front wall and roof are completely separated and
projecting from the main rock. It is attached to the rock only on its
floor and at its back wall. The church is believed to have been carved
during the 4th c. internal architecture and art works, rectangular
carved columns of quartz-rich sandstone supporting arches and curved
ceilings decorated by similar designs characterize this church. The
presence of a sand stone slab with inscriptions of the Aksumite type in
the vicinity of the church may also support the claim that the church
dates back to Aksumite Period.

Abraha We Atsbeha – is located in one of the most
scenic sites of the Tigrian Region. Considered among the country’s
earliest churches, it is known for its extraordinary interior decoration
as well as its magnificent murals. Its ceiling is decorated with
sophisticated patterns and its walls are dotted by curved crosses.
According to local tradition, the church was constructed in the 4th c,
but some scholars estimate its date of construction to be the 10th c.

Abune Yemata (GUH)-Yemata is one of the most
majestic and historical churches in Gheralta a village called Megab. It
can be reached 5km drive from west of Megab and a further 30 minutes
walk to the foot of the perpendicular rock mountains of Guh (name of the
area). The interior of the church can be reached after climbing 5m tall
vertical ascent where there are no ladders; no ropes and no hope if
someone fall, and pass by a most terrifying narrow ledge carved in the
cliff which is approximately 250m to 300m high. This rock is notable for
its extensive and perfectly preserved wall and ceiling frescoes of Old
and New Testament stories, thought to date from the 15th century. The
annual festival is taken place on the 8th November.

Yohannes Maequddi – this rectangular chapel has six
free standing pillars that support a ceiling carved with geometrical
design. The church contains many early paintings which are thought to be
at least 300 years old, and are very different in style to nay other
church paintings found in Gheralta. The walls of the building are
dresses with murals of saints and apostles; it is the intense atmosphere
that most visitors remember. A visit to this site thus provides an
opportunity to explore scenic beauty, unique centuries old rock-hewn
churches together with old-graced lives.

Debre Maryam Korkor Church – is one of the biggest
and most complex rock hewn churches of tigrai. It has three aisles and
is five bays deep to sanctuary entrance. Architecturally it is one of
the more complex structures, with many columns interesting shapes, with
three cupolas spanning the five bays and Aksumite detailing. The layout
follows the cruciform plan and there are numerous paintings on the walls
of the columns, some faded, and in different styles. The priest with a
chalice on one of the pillars is thought by one commentator to be
Melchizedek, the martyr priest. On the blind arch there are scenes from
early paradise with eve and the serpent, and the frescoes of birds and
gazelles.

Debre Tsion (Abune Abraham) – it is architecturally
most outstanding and entirely hewn from living rock. Inside this church
among other things to see, the back wall panels are abundantly decorated
with fine paintings of saints and Apostles. Especially the dome is
beautifully adorned with patterns. The structure incorporates a dome
like chamber decorated with many geometrical designs and carvings in
relief depicting Angels and Saints. The monument I brief; a
manifestation of great workmanship possesses the 15th c unique circular
ceremonial fan.

Meet the people of South Ethiopia

Cultural tours of Ethiopia enable onto understand the harmonious
diversity of the nation. There are 83 languages and 200 dialects spoken
throughout Ethiopia. The culture in Ethiopia is truly exotic, untouched
and authentic. Far from the modern life, the people in far field are
with natural and rustic life style that feels our origin.

Ethiopia is a mosaic of cultures for cultural tourists. The Lower Omo
Valley in the South of Ethiopia is perhaps one of the most
ethnographically diverse regions in the world. It served as an ancient
meeting point as tribes migrated from all corners of Africa and now
plays host to many different tribes each with unique and fascinating
customs. If you can handle the challenges of travelling in this remote
region, then the rewards are immense. Whether you are watching the
traditional ceremony of Hamer people jumping the Bulls or gazing
incredulously at the site of a Mursi’s lip plates, this is a place
unlike anywhere else on Earth.

The landscape and wildlife of the Lower Omo Valley is an attraction
in itself, terraced richly vegetated areas contrast with open savannah
and despite widespread poaching, hippo (Lake Chomo) and dik dik, kudu,
guinea fowl, gerenuk and various birds are frequently seen. The real
reason for the journey though is in the contrast of cultures and
learning about the traditional customs of peoples far removed from your
own lifestyle.

Hamer:- The Hamer who number around 50,000, are subsistence
agro-pastoralists. They cultivate sorghum, vegetables, millet, tobacco
and cotton, as well as rearing cattle and goats. Wild honey is an
important part of their diet.–The people are known particularly for
their remarkable hairstyles. The women mix together ochre, water and a
binding resin, rub the mixture into their hair, then twist strands again
and again to create coppery-colored tresses known as goscha. These are a
sign of health and welfare.–If they have recently killed an enemy or a
dangerous animal, the men are permitted to don clay hair buns that
sometimes support magnificent ostrich feathers. The buns — with the help
of special headdress (borkotos) for sleeping — last from three to six
months, and can be ‘redone’ for up to one year.The Hamer are also
considered masters of body decoration. Every adornment has an important
symbolic significance; earrings for example, denote the number of wives a
man has.

The women wear bead necklaces, iron coils around their arms, and
decorate their skin with cowry shells. The iron torques around their
necks are known as ensente and are worn by married or engaged women
only. They indicate the wealth and prestige of the woman’s husband.
Young, unmarried girls wear a metal plate in their hair that looks a bit
like a platypus’ bill.–The iron bracelets and armlets are an indication
of the wealth and social standing of the young girl’s family. When she
gets married, she must remove the jewellery; it is the first gift she
makes to her new family.–The Hamer territory stretches across the plains
of the Lower Omo to Chew Bahir in the east, almost to the Kenyan border
in the south, and to the territory of the Benna in the north.

The Karo:- The Karo people thought to be one of the most endangered
groups the Omo, with a population of about 1500 people. They inhabit the
eastern bank of the Omo. They were formerly pastoralists, but many of
their cattle have been wiped out by disease, and many have turned to
agriculture.In appearance, language and tradition, they slightly
resemble the Hamer, to whom they are related. The Karo are considered
masters of body painting, in which they engage when preparing for a
dance, feast or celebration. Most famously, chalk is used to imitate the
spotted plumage of the guinea fowl.The Karo are also great improvisers:
Bic biros, nails, sweets wrappers and cartridges are all incorporated
into jewellery and decoration. Yellow mineral rock, black charcoal and
pulverized red iron ore are traditionally used.

The Mursi :Perhaps the best known of the Omo peoples are the Mursi,
thought to number around 6500, are mainly pastoralists who move
according to the seasons between the lower Tama Steppe and the Mursi
Hills in Mago National Park.––Some Mursi practice flood retreat
cultivation, particularly in the areas where the tse tse fly prohibits
cattle rearing. Honey is collected from beehives made with bark and
dung. The Mursi language is Nilo-Saharan in origin.–The most famous
Mursi traditions include the fierce stick fighting between the men, and
the lip plate worn by the women which is made of clay and often quite
large, the plates are inserted into slits in their lower lips.
Anthropologists offer several theories to explain the practice: to deter
slavers looking for unblemished girls; to prevent evil from entering
the body by way of the mouth; or to indicate social status by showing
the number of cattle required by the wearer’s family for her hand in
marriage.

Lalibela

Lalibela, a medieval settlement in the Lasta area of Wello, lies
at the centre of an extensive complex of rock churches. Lalibela has 11
remarkable rock-hewn monolithic, semi-monolithic and cave built
churches, built by one of the Zagwe Dynasty rulers, King Lalibela in the
late 12th . These notable structures are carved, inside and out, out of
one solid rock.–After the decline of the Axumite empire, lamenting
their lost grandeur, Ethiopias rulers retreated with their Christian
subjects to the lofty escarpment of the central uplands. There,
protected by mountain battlements more formidable than anything the hand
of man could fashion, they were able to repel an increasingly
expansionist and militant Islam trapping and confusing their enemies in
the precipitous maze of valleys that intersects the high plateau.
–Inevitably, a fortress mentality took root: an intense suspicion of the
motives of strangers, a hatred of intrusion and interference, a
protective secrecy. During this period roughly from the seventh to the
sixteenth centuries AD – the Ethiopians, encompassed by the enemies of
their religion, were described by the British historian Edward Gibbon as
having slept for near a thousand years, forgetful of the world by whom
they were forgotten. It is true, moreover, that in holding back those
who sought to destroy their faith, the highlanders also effectively cut
themselves off from the evolving mainstream of Christian culture. This
is the only sense, however, in which they slept. Their unique,
idiosyncratic civilization was otherwise very much awake – a singular
and spirited affirmation of the creative power of the human intellect.
–Many improvisations were so vital, so uplifting, that they have endured
to the present day as living expressions of the central and lasting
values of Christian Ethiopian culture. Paramount among these priceless
legacies, like a great heart beating out an ancient but powerful pulse,
is the monastic settlement of Lalibela on a natural 2,600-metre rock
terrace surrounded on all sides by rugged and forbidding mountains in
the northern extreme of the modern province of Wollo.–Once the thriving
and populous capital city of a medieval dynasty, the passing centuries
have reduced Lalibela to a village. From the road below, it remains
little more than invisible against a horizon dominated by the
4,200-metre peak of Mount Abuna Joseph. –It is this camouflaged,
chameleon quality, however, that gives the remote settlement its special
and lasting place in the life of the highlands – for there, some 800
years ago, safe from the prying eyes and plundering hands of hostile
interlopers, a noble king fashioned a secret marvel. –Lalibela,
previously known as Roha, is named after the king. The word itself,
which translates to mean the bees, recognizes his sovereignty and the
people of the region still recount the legend that explains why.

King Lalibela’s goal was to create a New Jerusalem
for those who could not make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land. According to
some reports, he had been to the Holy Land himself and was inspired by
what he saw. But the king made no attempt to copy the churches of the
Holy Land; in fact, Lalibela’s sacred architecture could not be more
unique.

The churches of Lalibela were not constructed – they were excavated.
Each church was created by first carving out a wide trench on all four
sides of the rock, then painstakingly chiseling out the interior. The
largest church is 40 feet high, and the labor required to complete such a
task with only hammers and chisels is astounding.

Popular legend has it that angels came every night to pick up where the workmen had left off.

King Lalibela’s project for gaining the church’s favor had two
unexpected results: the creation of a holy place of unparalleled beauty
and the king’s conversion to a religious life. After
laboring for more than two decades , he abdicated his throne to become a
hermit, living in a cave and eating only roots and vegetables. To this
day, Ethiopian Christians regard King Lalibela as one of their greatest
saints.

The churches have been in continuous use since they were built in the 12th century.

The roofs of the Lalibela churches are level with the ground and are
reached by stairs descending into narrow trenches. The churches are
connected by tunnels and walkways and stretch across sheer drops. The
interior pillars of the churches have been worn smooth by the hands of
supplicating worshippers.

The rock-cut churches are simply but beautifully carved with such features as fragile-looking windows, moldings of various shapes and sizes, different forms of crosses, swastikas (an Eastern religious motif) and even Islamic traceries. Several churches also have wall paintings.

Each church has its own resident monk who appears in
the doorway in colorful brocade robes. Holding one of the church’s
elaborate processional crosses, usually made of silver, and sometimes a
prayer staff.

There are 11 rock-cut churches at Lalibela, the most spectacular of which is Bet Giorgis (St. George’s).
Located on the western side of the cluster of churches, it is cut 40
feet down and its roof forms the shape of a Greek cross. It is a
magnificent culmination of Lalibela’s plans to build a New Jerusalem,
with its perfect dimensions and geometrical precision.

Unlike some of the other churches, St. George’s is plain inside.

In the “Northern Group” across the main road from St. George, the most notable church is Beta Medhane Alem, home to the Lalibela Cross and believed to be the largest monolithic church in the world.

Bete Medhane Alem is linked by walkways and tunnels to Beta Maryam (St. Mary’s),
possibly the oldest of the churches. In the east wall of the church is
an array of geometric carved windows in a vertical line. From the bottom
up is: a Maltese cross in a square; a semi-circle shape like that on
the Axum stelae; a Latin cross; and a simple square window.

The windows illuminate the Holy of Holies in which the church’s copy
of the Ark is placed. Other decorations include a Star of David combined
with a Maltese cross, a Sun with a smiling human face flanked by
eight-spoked wheels, Mary on a donkey accompanied by Joseph, and an
Annunciation.

Next to Beta Maryam is Beta Golgotha, known for its
artwork which includes life-sized carvings of saints on the walls. It is
also home to the tomb of King Lalibela, over which stands a gold-draped
Ark. The Western group is completed by the Selassie Chapel and the Tomb of Adam.

Harar , the Fortified Historic Town

The fortified historic town of Harar is located in the eastern
part of the country on a plateau with deep gorges surrounded by deserts
and savannah. The walls surrounding this sacred Muslim city were built
between the 13th and 16th centuries. Harar Jugol, said to be the fourth
holiest city of Islam, numbers 82 mosques, three of which date from the
10th century, and 102 shrines, but the townhouses with their exceptional
interior design constitute the most spectacular part of Harar’s
cultural heritage. The impact of African and Islamic traditions on the
development of the town’s building types and urban layout make for its
particular character and uniqueness.

An incredible feature of Harar is the ‘Hyena Man’, who bravely feed
the erratic beasts by hand and mouth, each evening on the outskirt of
the city.

You can expect to see more than 10 Hyenas in one particular hyena
feeding ritual and if you are brave enough, you can try it yourself, few
fearless travelers do, and that is an adventure indeed!

So if you are up to for the adventure of a lifetime, nature devotee
and city types, Harar and Eastern Ethiopia as a whole is the place to
visit.

Hyena-feeding

The Eastern part of the country is dry, hot, wild and Muslim. It
contains magnificent landscapes, cities cloaked with a flagrant
historical aura and mystery and a pervading sense of adventure. If one
place had to be singled out, it would be Harar, the gem of the place.

Before the nightfall and meet the Harar Hyenas, getting ecstatically
lost in Harar’s captivating history by wandering through the mesmerizing
alleyways along with the aroma of the best coffee in Ethiopia “actually
in the world” that winding through the streets, make it all worth the
visit. Let us start with the distinct architectural feature in Harar; it
is the fascinating traditional Harari (Adare) houses and it is a must
see.

Harar is the city that can be visited at any time of year and it is a
city many foreigners inhabit among them is the famous French poet
Arthur Rimbaud, who spent some of his last year in the city.

An incredible feature of Harar is the ‘Hyena Man’, who bravely feed
the erratic beasts by hand and mouth, each evening on the outskirt of
the city.

You can expect to see more than 10 Hyenas in one particular hyena
feeding ritual and if you are brave enough, you can try it yourself, few
fearless travelers do, and that is an adventure indeed!

So if you are up to for the adventure of a lifetime, nature devotee
and city types, Harar and Eastern Ethiopia as a whole is the place to
visit.